Saturday, August 14, 2010

Is "Zero Waste" possible? (1)

A little background to sustainability
To "Reduce the impact of modern consumption without compromising commercial creative edge." (Chapman 2005, 24) is the new way all artists involved with design, art or anything creative need to start thinking.

Here is a background to sustainabilty, it is a good summation of how we are to think of sustainability in relation to our project:

Sustainability generally refers to a system's capacity to continue a stable pattern of operation. In order for the future not to be compromised we need to focus on the needs of the present and the impact they are having on the world and its resources. From an ecological perspective sustainable development is the protection of natural systems amid the growth of man-made environments.

Concerns for sustainability have recently re-entered popular awareness, with particular focus on the impact of production and consumption on wider environmental and social fronts. For those who plan to work in areas connected to commodity manufacture, issues relating to production and consumption are pertinent - ranging broadly from waste management, energy efficiency, transportation, water usage, use of pesticides and land-clearing to sweat-shop labour and consumerism. In particular, the pace and structure of the fashion industry and lifecycle of garmnets present complex issues in relation to sustainability, necessitating an awareness of the impact of decisions (and the flow-on effects of such decisions) from teh design stage through to the production chain and consumer use and disposal. Whether motivated by legislation, company codes of conduct, or personal ethics, sustainability is an issue which contemporary designers are increasingly invested in.

Besides having currency in terms of environmental or social responsibility, however, sustainability can also be discussed in terms of one's working experience. It touches how we approach and undertake our practice as designers-how we relate to our work. How can we sustain creative interest in our work? How do we develop and sustain our lifestyles, our financial security? How do we like to work best? What brings us the most satisfaction, and sustains our happiness? What is most important for us? By thinking about sustainability on an individual level, developing a personal philosophy within which to work and with an awareness of the broader issues relating to sustainability we are better equipped to question and consider our place within the industry and the wider scope of fashion practice.

ZERO WASTE?

Is "Zero Waste" possible? I had to ask myself the same question after reading through many articles around specific communities and businesses trying to pave the way to a "Zero Waste" world. When I first heard of the term “Zero Waste” I must say I definitely did not have a good understanding of what it was exactly. So what is "Zero Waste"? What I have understood so far is that ideally, it is focusing on the waste that is currently land-filled or incinerated and working towards such waste not being produced in the first place, or at least the waste being able to be reused or recycled. We can prevent such waste from being created through conserving natural resources through waste prevention and recycling, more efficient manufacturing and durable product use, to reusing and remanufacturing discarded materials instead of disposing of them. I hadn’t thought so deeply as to look at the source of the waste and how it was produced and if in the end it can be re-streamed into the system and not discarded of as waste (Leroux, 2001 & Motaualli, 2001).

When it comes to textile waste it is terrifying to see the volume and quality of the gems that are discarded of that could easily and creatively be “up-cycled”. By “up-cycling” I mean using waste materials to create products of equal or increased value and quality than the original waste materials (Black 2008). For example the UK, where clothing and textile waste is 23 million tonnes, 40kg per person with ¼ recovered. Where 13% goes to material recovery and 13% is incinerated to recover energy. The remaining ¾ goes to landfill which as it breaks down produces methane emissions among other pollutants that are emitted into the air and groundwater (Fletcher 2008). That makes you think doesn’t it, why don’t we go about creating all products that in the end can be recycled, reused or revamped?

There are apparently quite a few people out there that think “Zero-Waste” is an unrealistic and impossible proposal that will only end up frustrating the public and the industry. But there are those “Zero Waste” advocates that believe the opposite – that a zero waste approach makes the most economical and environmental sense over the long term. And isn’t long-term goals what need to be aimed for in the current day and age of global warming and copious amounts of wastage and ruin? (Leroux, 2001).

To me, as a fashion designer, “Zero Waste” was creating garments from recycled materials, or 2nd hand clothes and not wasting one bit of whatever I use to create my own unique garment. I guess in a way I would like to take my design process from a “Zero Waste” point of view in the way that I will not waste one inch of material in creating an equal in quality and usage garment as the recycled waste I “up-cycled” it from. I truly believe that the drive for a "Zero Waste" world is one we all need to jump on the bandwagon with if we are going to make the best decision for a sustainable future.

A great site is Eco-Cycle where they work to build zero waste communities. Check it out if your interested!

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